Buy Used Sanke Kegs ##HOT##
Sanke "D" style kegs are the standard keg in the US. They've been used by breweries for years and in recent years, they have been becoming more popular for alternative craft beverages such as coffee, kombucha, tea and more. Check out our assortment of US style stainless steel sanke kegs below.
buy used sanke kegs
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All our used kegs are checked for physical damage and pressure tested. All prior paint and branding is removed. All the valves are pressure tested and inspected. If there is any wear or damage to the valves, then the rubber seals are replaced with brand new Micromatic Seals and gaskets.
All our used kegs are checked for physical damage and pressure tested. All prior paint and branding is removed. All the valves are pressure tested and inspected. If there is any wear or damage to the valves, then the rubber seals are replaced with brand new seals and gaskets.
These containers, often known as kegs, store the beer, extend its shelf life and flavor retention, and leave the barrel with the same flavor. You might wonder if these barrels differ in their distinctive features and appearances, and the answer is yes!
Sanke, also called Sankey, is a type of beer keg. The top of the Sanke kegs has a single valve that lets gas and beer pour through. A spike in the valve that runs to the bottom of the Sankey keg allows the beer to flow. This type of beer made its name because of its convenience to users, especially in commercial aspects.
The previous keg design had a more complex structure which was harder to clean, and the sanitization works were less efficient. Due to this, commercial beer establishments switched to sanke, which is better in terms of space efficiency, stack stability, and ergonomic handles.
There are two types of corny kegs; Pin locks and Ball Locks. As soft drinks corporations formerly used them, Pin lock corny kegs were produced for Coca-Cola; In contrast, Ball Lock was produced for Pepsi. Despite the difference between dimensions, lid styles, and posts, they still function the same as corny kegs.
Because of this, these corny kegs were not able to keep up to date until they were disused by these companies. Although it was said that it was out of date, some homebrewers kept their kegs as they believed that their corny kegs were better than bottling.
It is obvious that the smallest gallon of sanke is equivalent to the largest gallon of a corny keg given their size differences. The data, keg sizes, and volume differences are shown in the table above.
As implied by the name, it is a stainless metal that resists rusting even when exposed to acidic foods. This results to using of stainless steel for kegs which will preserve and prolong the life of the beer without compromising its safety.
For quick and simple transfers between various kegs, Sankey kegs require Sankey couplers. The six distinct sanke couplers are designed to accommodate particular sanke kegs. This includes the following:
There are two types of corny kegs which are the ball-lock and pin-lock kegs. As they were used before by Coca-Cola and Pepsi, it is guaranteed that these kegs are exceptional. Below is a video by WNY Brews discussing the difference between Pin Lock and Ball lock:
Just like the Ball Lock kegs, these pin lock kegs are also derived from their name, wherein it uses a pin to lock the barrel of beer. In order for the fitting to lock onto those pins, you must push it down and turn it.
Sanke kegs are barrels that are used for commercial uses, while corny kegs are great for homebrewers. The main distinguishing characteristic between the two is that the sanke keg has no removable lid! This made it impossible to use at home since you will need special types of equipment to open it.
Corny kegs, on the other hand, work best for home because of their removable lid, which is easier to clean at home because you will need no types of equipment at all! Despite their differences, their main objective is to store beer to enhance its longevity and flavor!
Tired of bottling yet? Too much cleaning, too much space, too many empties? There is a solution. Kegging!!! We've all seen the 15 gallon kegs typically used by bars and the occasional frat party. Well, home brewers have their own spin on kegs. We use 5 gallon stainless steel tanks, originally designed for soda fountains. The size is convenient since it matches our batch. The tanks are cylindrical in shape and fit well in a spare fridge. Here's what you need.
This is just the very basics for using your keg system. If you're interested I can go into more detail about parts and cleaning and enhancing your system to have a variety of kegs (and beer) available at the same time. We can show you how to bottle from the keg, use your CO2 to purge fermenters and start a siphon.
If you are currently using a home keg system, you are familiar with the operation of the CO2 bottle, regulator, tap, and faucet. To make it easier for you, many microbreweries are offering beer in a 5 gallon Cornelius Keg (Corny for short). For years, soda distributors have used these stainless steel tanks to deliver carbonated beverages to restaurants, mini-marts, and wherever soda is sold. Corny kegs are also a wonderful tool for kegging beer. Unlike the standard 8 and 15 gallon kegs, you can purchase a Corny keg for home use. It is easily transportable and easier to tap. Since you purchase your own keg, the brewery will not ask for a deposit or demand the keg returned before a certain date. Corny kegs can be purchased new for about $150.00 or used and reconditioned for $55.00. Both available at your local home-brew store.
Whether new or used, ownership comes with responsibility. Your local microbrewery will happily fill a Corny keg but you will need to clean it before they can fill it. This is no different than the rest of your keg system. All your keg system parts need to be cleaned periodically. It would make sense that every time you empty your keg, you will want to clean it in preparation for the next filling.
All kegs are assembled from many stainless steel parts and a number of rubber O rings. Most of these parts come into contact with the beer and therefore must be cleaned and sanitized before use. With careful disassembly and assembly, none of the stainless parts should ever need replacement. O rings can eventually dry out, crack, get cut, or simply get lost. One of the real advantages of kegs is the wide availability of standard replacement parts. Olympic Brewing will have all the parts you need.
Because many home brewers acquire used, reconditioned kegs, and because there's no way of knowing where that used keg came from, it's always a good idea to disassemble used kegs completely and inspect them for damage (such as pitting or rust spots inside), residue, and general cleanliness. The kegs may well need a good scrubbing with Straight-A.
The lid: It should be easy enough to remove the lid and the large O ring used to seal it when the keg is depressurized by lifting the retaining bail (the lid won't budge if the keg's under pressure). Often the O ring will smell strongly of soda syrup. The smell can be removed by washing in warm soapy water. Many brewers prefer to buy an O ring kit to replace all the rubber parts to eliminate the syrup odor. I've never found the original O rings to have any effect on beer aroma or flavor, but the choice is yours. In any case, the O ring should be removed from the lid, and both parts thoroughly washed and reassembled, along with the retaining bail.
The inside: A newly purchased keg should be very clean inside and not require any special treatment. An effective way to wash the interior, if it's needed, is to add about 1-2 tsp of un perfumed dishwasher detergent or TSP to about 2-4 qt of the hottest tap water available. With the lid in place and locked, shake the keg repeatedly, then drain and rinse. Usually, the kegs you buy will have only been used as soda canisters, and any residue they contain is easily water soluble.
Kegs can be harder to clean after you've used them for beer making because of beer stone, protein deposits, trub, and so forth. A standard carboy brush will come in handy for loosening gummy material. The dishwasher detergent will then leave the keg bright. It's sometimes difficult to tell whether the keg is completely rinsed, so after draining all detergent water I rinse three times -- twice with very hot water, and a final time with cold water.
Remove. The two valve assemblies thread onto the keg like any nut to a bolt. For ball-lock kegs, use any wrench or socket that matches the fittings (one is usually a standard hex shape, and the other usually a 12-point style), turn them counterclockwise, and remove them from the keg. On pin-lock kegs, the gas-side connector uses two pins 180 degrees apart, and the beer side uses three pins 60 degrees apart. The pins make it difficult to get a wrench on the beer side. Many brewers modify a spark-plug socket wrench by cutting slots in the corners for the pins to fit into, which prevents accidental snapping of the pins off the connector. 041b061a72